In combination with the clever hidden closure in the pocket, the tie waistband of the Flint Pants and Shorts is the signature of this design. Not only is a beautiful visual detail, it is also super practical!
I love how it enables the notions for the project to be so minimal. Once you have your fabric, all you need is one button, some thread and interfacing!
The construction of this waistband is fun and unlike any other I have made before.
So let’s get started!
First off, attach light weight fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the waistband (pattern piece 6) and left waistband (pattern piece 7).
The standard method for attaching interfacing is to cut out both the fabric and the interfacing according to the pattern piece and use an iron to fuse them together. Hold the iron down for between 10 – 30 seconds on each section to ensure it fuses properly. However, if you are not careful to press (lifting your iron up and placing it on the next section) instead of ironing (moving the iron back and forth over the fabric), this method can distort the fabric or the shape of the interfacing.
Another method is Block Fusing. In this case, you cut a piece of fabric large enough to fit all the pattern pieces that need interfacing, and attach interfacing to whole piece on the wrong side. Then cut out the pattern pieces from the pre-interfaced fabric. This helps reduce the risk of the fabric warping but it can leave a fair bit of fabric waste.
I prefer to do a reversal of this method and cut the fabric pattern pieces out, lay them over the shiny, dotted side of a piece of interfacing big enough to fit the pattern pieces. Then add a layer of baking paper on top of both the fabric and interfacing. This will not stick to the interfacing and will allow you to press the fabric to the interfacing without risking your iron getting gummy too. Peel off the baking paper and cut out your pattern pieces from the interfacing.
Mark all notches on the waistband. They will be key in placing the ties and attaching the waistband to the pants. Be sure to mark the button and button hole placements as per the pattern piece also. This will help you to determine which side of the waistband is facing the inside and how it should be placed on the waisitline. Use whatever method works best for you – my go-tos are chalk, pen or tailor’s tacks.
Align both sets of ties (pattern piece 8) with right sides together. Sew 6mm (¼”) from the raw edge around the two long outer edges. Leave the short straight edge open so you can turn them inside out.
Note: If you want to make extended ties. Use the base of the ties from the pattern and draft the shape you would like. This ensures that they will still fit within the notches on the waistband. Proceed with the remaining steps as per the instructions.
Trim the seam allowance down close to the point. However do not get too close to the seam if you are using a loose weave like linen. This can result in a popped seam, especially when you turn them right side out. If using linen or a similar fabric you may want to reinforce the seams with extra stitching
Turn the ties so that the right side is out, press well.
Attaching ties to waistband
Place the ties on the right side of the waistband (pattern piece 6). Align them with the notches, so that the edge of the tie is right up against the notch. Baste in place 1.3cm (½”) from the raw edge.
Place the left waistband (pattern piece 7) with right sides together on the left seam of the waistband (pattern piece 6). You will be able to tell which side it goes on by the tie positions lining up face to face. Sew 1.5cm (5/8”) from the raw edge through the waistband pieces and the tie.
Press the seams open or towards the back. It’s best to grade the seam allowance (staggering seam allowances by trimming at a different length) of the tie to reduce bulk.
The instructions tell you to turn and press the inside edge of the waistband after it has been attached. I prefer to turn and press it now, before it is attahced and when it is easier to handle. Turn in the inside edge of the waistband by 1.5cm (5/8”) and press well. The inside edge is the edge furthest away from the ties.
With right sides together, align the waistband on the pants so that the notches on line up with the relevant points. Check you have the waistband positioned the right way, the ties should sit closest to the waistline seam.
The waistband piece will extend 1.5cm (5/8”) beyond the pocket opening, as well as the pocket back on the inside of the garment. Sew 1.5cm (5/8”) from the raw edge along the waist seam. Be careful not to catch the ties in your stitches.
Press the seam allowances and waistband pattern piece up away from the main pants.
Right sides together, fold the ends of the waistband in half. Align the folded edge of the waistband with the waist seam previously sewn.
Sew 1.5cm (5/8”) from the raw edge along the short waistband ends. Be careful not to catch the pants or pocket edge in your sewing.
The outer waistband edge will include a tie. The inner waistband piece will not, as it sits further back in a different seam. Clip the corners and trim the seam allowance back. Turn right side out and press.
The instructions tell you to pin the waistband to the seam allowance on the inside of the pants. However as you topstitch from the outside, I prefer to take a little extra time and pin the waistband down onto the seam allowance from the outside.
Carefully topstitch around 2-3mm (1/8”) from the seam edge on the outside of the pants to enclose the waistband. Go slow so that your top stitching remains an even distance away from the seam the whole way around.
Sew one button hole on the inner waistband in the position marked earlier. Sew one button on the inside of the outer waistband in the position marked from the pattern earlier.
When opening up the button hole, I like to put a pin through the end. This prevents any tears or swear words spilling out over my seam ripper busting through the end of the button hole!
Your pants are really taking shape and turning into Flints! They will now close with a hidden internal button and side ties!
If you are sewing View B or View D of the Flint pattern you are only one step away from completion – the last thing to do is hemming!! Yay!
If you’re sewing View A or View C (the button up waistband), tomorrow’s tutorial is for you!
To pick up some the beautiful Paint print in Polyester crepe that you see above, you can get it here.
Don’t forget to tag us on Instagram for your chance to win a Megan Nielsen PDF pattern of your choice!
To enter all you have to do is:
1. Follow me @indybindyco
2. Follow Megan @megannielsenpatterns
3. Comment on any of my Instagram posts this week letting us know you’re taking part in the sew along.
4. Tag both of us in the caption of a post of your Flint pants (completed or in process!) The more posts you tag us in the more entries you get!
5. Be sure to include the hashtags #sewitwithindybindy and #mnflint so we can keep track of the entries and see your gorgeous makes!!
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